Any good golf course greens program incorporates several different cultural practices. I would argue that topdressing your greens is the most important one. Yes, aeration and verticutting are very important, but a good topdressing program really steers the ship.
Here in Eastern North Carolina and South Carolina, I would guess that 85-90% of golf course greens are ultradwarf bermudagrass. During the growing season here, greens grow at an accelerated pace that requires aggressive thatch management. This is where topdressing comes into play. Topdressing is key in diluting thatch, increasing firmness, and improving the smoothness of surfaces.
As I stated before, I believe that a good topdressing program is the centerpiece of any good greens program. Why do I think that? It’s because topdressing is married to all of your other cultural practices. If you are going to aerate your greens, you should follow up by topdressing. If you are going to verticut your greens, this too should be followed by topdressing.
Here are some tips and guidelines as you build out your topdressing regimen:
Topdressing intervals are important. I believe that on ultradwarf bermudagrass, you should topdress at least every two weeks. In a perfect world, I would do it weekly. I realize that many courses can’t make this happen. It’s difficult to find a time every week that has minimal play disruption, and quite frankly, topdressing is not a cheap endeavor. So, if you’re unable to topdress every week, at least try to make it work every two weeks.
Topdressing particle size should closely mimic the topsoil that exists in the greens profile, provided the greens profile is suitable. If you are having problems with your soil profile, do not topdress with similarly sized particles; correct the profile first. Buy a sand sieve and test your particle size to ensure you’re getting the right sand. I found sand sieves online for as cheap as $60. Spending the money on a sieve to make sure that you’re not creating a bridging problem is a smart idea. Remember, fine particles over coarse particles will likely cause a perched water table in the top layers of the profile. Coarse over fine means you are fine.
In a similar vein, make sure that the sand you are using is not too fine. Using very fine sand can seal your greens off, preventing any moisture or nutrients from entering your soil profile. Working too fine of a sand into your greens is an easy mistake to make because, in an effort to minimize play disruption and complaints about playing conditions, courses often put down fine sand.
Find a reputable distributor and ask questions to your supplier. I’ve seen too many horror stories when it comes to sand. I have seen sand loads with gravel in them, which will hurt playing conditions and damage reels. I have also seen sand loads that were supposed to be one size and put out by a manager, only for them to realize that the particle size was wrong (see the ‘buy the sand sieve’ portion of the article again). Most sand distributors are NOT professional turf managers. Most likely, you will have to guide them to what you need to use on your stands.
My main takeaway: Make informed decisions when choosing your sand and topdressing frequency intervals. For more information on topdressing and if you have any questions, please reach out to your ATS rep.
