As you prepare for the playing season, spring seeding and starter fertilizer applications should be top of mind.

Why Spring Seeding?

No superintendents I know want to seed in the spring, but it’s important to repair damaged turf before golfers hit the course.

High-traffic areas and areas that didn’t quite recover in the fall will see the biggest benefit. Seeding also helps turf bounce back from winter injury. Plus, if you did any stump grinding over the winter, seeding will fill in those bare spots.

Planning To Seed

You’re working with 100 to 200 acres of turf, so you need to be strategic in determining which areas to seed. You’ll also need to choose the right seed.

If you have all bluegrass, make sure you put bluegrass seed down. If you have a certain variety of bentgrass on your greens, choose a bentgrass that matches your color variety. I have seen some greens end up looking like camouflage due to different shades.

Keep soil temperature in mind, too. A warm day in February does not mean that the soil is ready for seed. Conditions become ideal for germination when soil temperatures are between 50 and 60°F. These temperatures are usually reached in March or April here in Illinois.

Here are some rate suggestions to keep in mind as you plan:

  • For bentgrass greens, rates are usually 1-1.5 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
  • Strictly rye fairways will be 6-8 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
  • Blue/rye fairway rates will be lower, around 2-3 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
  • Fescue roughs, stump holes, or areas that were torn up over the winter should be seeded at 7-10 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.

Applying Fertilizer

After you’ve seeded, you’ll need to apply fertilizer. You want a product that’s high in phosphorus to build good roots, and you don’t want a lot of nitrogen. The plant isn’t fully developed yet, so you want some nitrogen, but not so much that you have to constantly mow the surrounding grass while you’re trying to get seed to germinate.

16-28-12 is a great synthetic fertilizer that helps pop seed out of the ground. 9-12-6 is an organic option that many of my customers trust, too.

If you want to go the liquid route, I recommend two applications of Grow-In to help the seed pop and provide lots of nutrients. The first application should be made just prior to seeding, and the second should be made once the seed starts germinating, about two weeks after seeding.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

The biggest mistake I see superintendents make is seeding and not watering. You have to make sure the seed stays moist until it germinates, and for a period after it germinates, to keep it from drying out.

I alluded to it before, but applying heavy nitrogen is also a big mistake. I’ve seen people seed, apply too much nitrogen, and then the surrounding grass grows two feet tall. That’s no good.

The last mistake is putting down a pre-emergent herbicide too early. You can’t put Dimension or Barricade down over seed. They will not just kill weed seeds; they will kill all seeds. You can, however, apply mesotrione about four weeks after seeding.

Get Prepared

Seeding and putting down fertilizer this spring will set your course up for healthy, beautiful playing conditions this season.

For additional tips and information catered to your course and geography, reach out to your ATS rep.